Rubio's Fresh Mexican Grill

FAFU FRIDAY!!!

Every Friday I review a chain restaurant to incorporate more of the readership into all of the burrito fun. 

Rubio's hails from San Diego, but has setup all along the western United States hocking "fresh mex" ranging from fish tacos to gourmet burritos. 

"Fresh mex" or "new wave Mexican" is an insipid movement particularly common in the US combining traditional Mexican with ingredients reserved usually for haute cuisine. Cilantro infusions, avocado soups, and tomato reductions are applied to accentuate different flavors hidden in simple dishes. 

Of course, Rubio's is still a casual dining experience more akin to fast food than the French Laundry, but the core principles still define what separates this restaurant from your average walk-up. 

I opted for the Burrito Especial with steak and swapped the citrus-rice for more traditional orange party rice. Romaine lettuce, whole black beans, salsa fresca, guacamole, chipotle sauce, and red tomato salsa are also crammed into this burrito making me think one thing: you're trying too hard. 

Don't get me wrong, burrito, you taste fine, but your insecurities are showing with how much you tug my taste buds every which way. There is so much going on it all kind of blends together into one androgynous tongue-numbing thump. No heat. No spice. Just a cacophony of flavors banging loudly all at once. 

Luckily, their salsa bar is mighty, stocked with pickled carrots and jalapenos, four different salsas, golden state peppers, and lemons which allowed me to heat up and contextualize separate sections of my flavor experience. 

Not to sound like a Luddite, but I tend to get lost in less-traditional, high-cuisine burritos that seek to improve upon solid classics. I know my burrito was assembled by a teenager, but they are still approaching the equation wrong by adding chipotle sauces and citrus rices to round out my burrito rather than trusting the steak and salsa to do their jobs. 

Other places have succeeded in bringing something truly unique which elevates burrito culture like the Kogi trucks or expands the definition like Oki-Dogs, but sometimes it can all be too much and nothing is gained, 

...and quick side note: What the hell was up with the side of black pepper bean soup? I had beans in my burrito, and yet you felt the need to give me an entire cup as a side. Thanks?

To Bean or Not To Bean

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"Write Now Wednesdays" is the day I take time to explain facets of Burrito Life or expand opinions touched upon in previous articles. 

The magical fruit often comes in one of two pinto varieties when met on the burrito plane: refried or ranch. Each serve their own purpose accompanying a burrito. From flavors and textures to more expedient causes like binding and structural integrity. 

"Refried beans" is actually a misnomer since beans are often only fried once, mashed, and then sometimes baked rather than double-fried. Due to the mashed consistency, flavor depth rarely passes the first dimension solidifying refried beans as a sidekick to other more complex ingredients. 

Often used as a base in burrito fillings, the beans cement every other ingredient into place preventing uneven bites. The added benefits of refried beans are the insulation to hold in heat and the way the wetness of the beans tenderizes heartier ingredients. 

A tastier, and frequently healthier option available upon request at most restaurants are ranch-style beans or "pot beans." Pot beans are soaked, boiled with spices, then generous amounts of cilantro and/or pico de gallo can be added before serving. The range of flavor is near unlimited.  

Textures, tastes, and fragrances become more dynamic and complex when pot beans are in play. This leaves a lot of room for experimentation allowing cooks to introduce new spices or venture entirely away from the ubiquitous pinto bean. 

Then again, some restaurants don't know beans. Asking the cook to the hold our leggy friend might be the best addition to the meal. Chile Verde burritos tend to be wet, so adding a heap of sloppy beans may soak through the tortilla leaving a mess in your lap.

In the burrito life there is no nobility to suffering. Whatever bean you choose, be sure it makes you happy.